Today was a very good day.  Our Swiss friends from the Lima hostel, Beatrice and Jos gave us a heads-up that we definitely didn’t want to miss this experience.  They were absolutely correct.  Our day started with a wake-up at the nice little Paracas Bay Hostal where we camped.  The cheerful owners, Isabella and Roberto let us camp in Mango, cook in their kitchen and take showers for 20 soles ($7.66) for all 3 of us.  Isabella even cooked some bread and made fresh pineapple juice – very nice people.   At 8:00 AM we walked the few blocks to the boat dock and jumped in a boat with about 35 other people for the ride out to the Ballestas Islands (Islas Ballestas).  The islands are home to a veritable horde of sea-lions, penguins, birds, crabs, starfish, and dolphins.  The Ballestas are sometimes known as the “Poor man’s Galapagos” and for 30 soles each ($10) we definitely got our full money’s worth and then some.  Right upon leaving the dock, a school of dolphins greated us as they passed the side of the boat.  The driver turned the engine off and we bobbed in the sea for a few minutes, enjoying these beautiful creatures.  A few minutes later we were off to view the giant Candelebra carving.  Theories differ on when, who and how this carving was created, but netherless it is an impressive centuries-old carving etched into the hillside overlooking the ocean.

The best part of the trip was as soon as the boat arrived at the Ballestas Islands.   On the islands were thousands of sea lions, boobies, cormorants, penguins, pelicans, and countless other sea birds.  This was the first time I’d ever seen penguins outside of a zoo or on TV, so it was especially memorable being this close.  At times the boat driver literally took us within 10 feet of the rocky shoreline.  You could almost reach out and touch all the animals.  The amazing thing was that none of the animals seemed to mind us.  The boat drivers kept their careful distance, and there were so many birds, penguins, etc that I think the animals just didn’t feel intimidated or threatened by our presence.  Many years ago, the main export of Peru was guano (poop) from the birds on islands such as the Ballestas.  Workers lived on the islands and harvested guano for export abroad as a nutrient-rich fertilizer.  The Ballestas Islands are now part of the protected Paracas National Reserve, but every four years workers still come to harvest all the guano produced by the many seabirds.

Aside from the many birds, whole colonies of sea lions also make their home here.  The boat took us counter-clockwise around the island, and we saw several beaches where hundreds of sea-lions dozed, ate, played, fought, you name-it.  Our boat guide was a biologist who spoke both Spanish and English well.  As the boat puttered along he narrated and described the life-cycle and breeding habits of the sea lions.  It was awesome seeing all the sea lions in their natural settings, but even more so because we learn a bit more about them.   I didn’t know that there were separate beaches where the single males hung out, but now I do.  The little baby sea lions playing, crying, or waddling near their moms were especially cute.

For the full Ballestas Islands photo gallery, including even more penguins, sea lions and other wildlife, click here: Ballestas Islands Wildlife Gallery

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If you go on the Ballestas Islands Boat Tour:

1.     Get your ticket the night before from one of the many ticket vendors in the town of Paracas.  We used a vendor Jos and Beatrice recommended who has the first stand with a large sign as you drive into town from the north side.  This man seemed to be the owner, or was at least high enough in the tour company that he could sell us the tickets for $10 each.  Be ready to bargain.
2.     Schedule the 8:00 AM boat cruise as opposed to a later one.  We were told the birds are more active and plentiful on the islands in the morning hours.  Also, since you’re on a boat with no shade, you’ll probably get baked less in the morning than when the sun is directly above you later on.  We were comfortable in shorts and T-shirts at 8 AM, even in the wind when the boat was crossing to the islands at high-speed.  Regardless of your trip time, lather up with sunscreen before you go.
3.    Sit on the LEFT side of the boat somewhere in the middle.  The boat travels counter-clockwise around the islands so you’ll have the best view from the left side.  If you sit in the front your views may be obstructed somewhat by the spray shield on many of the boats.  It’s also a bit harder to see ahead in front of the boat when the motor starts and the front raises.
4.    If driving to Paracas on the Panamerican highway, you can bypass Pisco by continuing south.  We got some advice that the seaside road south out of Pisco is pretty industirial and worth skipping.  About 10 km south of Pisco on the Panamerican Highway is a nice paved road with a signed-turnoff for Paracas.  We took this road and it worked well for us.  Turn left towards Paracas when the road T’s near the ocean.
5.    The little Paracas Bay Hostal where we camped in our VW also has a small tent camping area out back by the even smaller pool.  The Hostal is basically a house with an enclosed yard that the friendly owners, Isabella and Roberto added some rooms to create a hostal.  It’s in a good location, only 3-4 blocks south of the plaza on the main road.  We paid 20 soles for 3 people to camp, and a 2 person room costs about 40 soles.  If driving a vehicle, the entrance to the hostal has a low archway.  Anything about 6 inches higher than our Volkswagen probably won’t make it in.

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